Underwater Macro Photography
Macro photography preparation for taking great photos
By Scott Gietler
To get good at Underwater Macro Photography, I suggest you master the following topics, and then read on:
Underwater Macro Settings for Digital Cameras
Subject - choosing a macro subject
Taking great macro underwater photos starts with research. Where can I find good subjects? What dive sites and what depths are they at? Do searches on the internet, ask divers who have been there before. If possible, use a guide who specialized in macro subjects. Next, look at photos that have been taken at these locations. What subjects are producing the best photographs, which backgrounds and compositions look the best, what can you improve on. Try to previsualize the shots you would like to get, image how the light should fall on your subject, whether the background will be blurred or in focus. Based on your research, and imagined shots, decide on which lens or lenses to take on your dives.
When you start your dive, you should have an idea of what you are looking for, the type of habitat it lives in, and what depth ranges it is at. so you find a subject, now what?
If another photographer is shooting the subject, be careful not to get too close, or to cause silt to flow towards them. Keep your distance; watch the direction of the current and your silt. Try to get in their line of vision so they know you are often interested. See if there is another subject nearby you can shoot while waiting for them.
You must be able to evaluate the potential of a subject. Some subjects you will want to pass over because there is no chance of a good moment or presentation. This is something that comes with experience.

Bright colors make for great macro subjects. Janolus nudibranch.
Further reading on choosing macro subjects:
Macro and muck-diving critter list
Destinations for underwater photography travel
Moment - when to take the photo
To get good at underwater macro photography, it's time to think about moment and presentation. You want to watch your subject. What is it doing, will it exhibit any behavior? Does it change position, yawn, or ambush fish? Is it carrying eggs? Opening / closing its mouth? Try to imagine what the best possible moment to capture will be. Sometimes the subject will be a beautiful slow-moving nudibranch all by itself. You may think there is no good or bad moment for this subject. But even for a nudibranch, there is often a best moment, when its gills are fully out, if it has gills.

It can take a long time to get a macro subject in the right position - in this case, with the background completely filled with the crinoid. F13, 1/200th, ISO 200, 60mm lens in Anilao, Phillipines.
Read further about Photographing Marine life behavior
Presentation - Composition, lighting, and focus in underwater macro photography
I want to capture the subject in the best possible presentation. I will think about 6 things - composition, strobe position (lighting), background, focus, exposure, and depth of field.
Composition - I will try to get low, and evaluate different compositions, such as head on, fill the frame, diagonal, shoot from underneath. Sometimes the best composition can really take work. Try a few different compositions.

It took a long time to get "low" beneath this soft coral crab on the left for the right composition.
Strobe position - based on the texture of the subject, and the water visibility, I will think about my strobe position. Do I want front lighting, side lighting, backlighting do i have to worry about backscatter Do I need to position my strobes for a black background? I almost always have my diffusers on, giving the light a softer look that looks better in macro photography. You can review strobe positon examples here.

One strobe from the side helped me light this anemone the way that I had wanted to.
Background - what color do I want my background to be? Do I want it black, blue, green? Is it in focus or blurred? Is there a colorful object nearby that I can get into the background? Do I need to carefully move the subject to a better background, and can that be done without stressing the subject? Sometimes lembeh sticks are used to carefully reposition crabs or shrimps. don't use your dive gloves, they may injure or stick to the subject. Do not risk injuring a subject or causing it to flee its habitat just to get the shot you want.

Focus - you will want to usually focus on the eyes or rhinophores. Lock focus on them and recompose. If your camera has a moveable focus point, use your arrow keys to move your focus point to where you want it. You may need to do this often if the composition changes, or your subject moves. this will help avoid a bull’s-eye composition also. Depending on the subject and how easily my camera is focusing, I will switch between C (continuous) and S (single-shot) focus modes. Luckily my housing allows me access to this switch. C mode allows me to shoot without the camera "locking" focus, which can be difficult when shooting supermacro.
To keep the eyes of this goby on the left in focus, I moved my focus point to where I wanted it, and moved in quickly for the shot, keeping the focus point on its eye.
Exposure - you need to check your display and/or histogram to ensure a proper exposure. With my TTL converter I almost always have a proper exposure, but sometimes I'll need to adjust my TTL converter up or down. If you are shooting manual, you'll adjust your strobe power up or down. A TTL converter is a big help in shooting macro. You really don’t need to worry about exposure the majority of the time. I think people shooting macro without TTL are at a big disadvantage.

I took my time with this hairy squat lobster to get a good diagonal composition from corner to corner, and to get the eyes in focus. Having TTL meant I didn't have to worry about exposure, and I could focus on the other aspects of presentation.
Depth of field - this is related to the background. How much DOF do I need, or want, for the composition that I have chosen? Do I want to blur the background? Is the ambient light so strong I need a small aperture to help block it out? (This is common in clear, shallow water at mid-day). All these factors will help determine the proper f-stop to use for the shot. Review the f-stop and depth of field examples if you need to. Remember - there is no best F-stop for macro photography. A large aperture (small f-stop) will blur the background, and a small aperture will bring more of the background into focus.

F13 was a good choice for this photo of a Catalina goby, who I was fairly close to, taken with a nikon 105mm lens. The entire face is in focus, but the rear is nicely blurred. F25 would have had a very different effect.
Take your time, think carefully about these items, and don’t forget to check your LCD. The better you become as a photographer, in general you will spend more time with subjects you feel are special, waiting for the right moment, and experimenting with your presentation.

After finding a unique subject for underwater macro photography, it was perfectly presented showing just enough of its habitat to convey the sense of camoflauge it has developed. Portrait composition, slight diagonal line and black groundground all helped it come together. Photo by Keri Wilk. The black background was possible because there was nothing behind the subject. The frogfish was on sargassum floating at the surface of the ocean in shallow water.


After the shot, underwater etiquette
If there was another photographer waiting for the subject, find the photographer. Show them exactly where the subject is before leaving the scene. if the subject is very small, you may need to show them on the viewfinder first. Be careful that you don't loose the location of a subject; this is where a lembeh stick will come in handy. Plant the lembeh stick next to the subject, so you can retrieve another photographer and bring them to the exact location. Read more about underwater photographer etiquette. Your lembeh stick can also be used to stick in the ground when a current is sweeping you towards another dive taking a photograph. This way you can stay out of the way without kicking up silt.
Further Reading
Guide to Supermacro photography



Comments
I am glad to found such
I am glad to found such useful post. I really increased my knowledge after read your post which will be beneficial for me. Rattan Garden Furniture Leeds
very good tutorial, and good
very good tutorial, and good photos too :) do you take the pic using a regular compact rugged camera or a DSLR camera ?
waterproof camera
very good tutorial, and good
very good tutorial, and good photos too :) do you take the pic using a regular compact rugged camera or a DSLR camera ?
waterproof camera
Hi Scott, Great article. I'm
Hi Scott,
Great article. I'm a newbie underwater photographer - recently purchased a Sony nex5 and a nauticam housing for it. I've been using the standard E 16mm F2.8 Pancake lens with a dome port and it has been great for wide angle and panorama pics. I now want to invest in a good macro lens, regular port and strobe before my next trip this december.
Any specific lens you could recommend that would be fairly easy to set up without too many adapters would be greatly appreciated.
Tahsin
There exists several usable
There exists several usable alternatives for underwater photography, like digital point and shoot cameras, compact digital cameras with full exposure controls, and SLRs (single lens reflex cameras). Unlike the earlier amphibious or waterproof camera, the first was the Calypso, reintroduced as the Nikonos in 1963, which is designed specifically for use underwater, these cameras now require a housing for underwater use. Nikon discontinued the Nikonos series in 2001 and, as it is a 35mm film system, it is somewhat obsolete, but some photographers still choose this approach. Sea and Sea continues to manufacture an amphibious range finder camera that utilizes 35mm film, the Motor Marine III.
Hey Scott great stuff! Next
Hey Scott great stuff! Next time you are in Philippines stop into Sabang on Oriental Mindoro ( across from Batangas), lots of macro critters there. Stop in the photo shop there and say hello. Got some good macro spots there in Batangas too. Not anyone dives on them! Regards, john
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Initially I had Olympus
Initially I had Olympus Camedia C-5060 for macro photography and it was quite hard to have blurred background - now, with typical DSLR with macro lens it is quite opposite - I have to choose aperture range at least 5.6-8 to have an object sharp enough.
Scott any advise on using the
Scott any advise on using the new 85 VR II Nikon lens. Came back from a trip on Bonaire did not do well. I am using this lens on the flat port for the 105.
Thanks lot
hey Tony - we're answering
hey Tony - we're answering questions on the forums now, if you could post there we're be sure to answer it
Scott Gietler Owner/Editor, Underwater Photography Guide & Bluewater Photo http://www.uwphotographyguide.com
http://www.bluewaterphotostore.com
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