Reflections of Dominica

Dive Reports, Destinations Questions, and Travel Issues

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Postby douglasjhoffman » Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:50 am

sponge 1.jpg
Capt jerry.jpg
SPERM WHALE TALE 1.jpg
Dominnica coast view from boat.jpg
Having traveled to remote locations in the pacific where men wear penis sheaths, kids have no shoes but have cell phones, to islands in the Caribbean where the hair style is dreadlocks, homes are made of plywood and sheets of aluminum siding but inside are 40 inch television sets, I have learned that people are the same all over the world. The difference is our culture, environment and the creature comforts that are available.

Dominica should not be confused with the Dominican Republic, and is located not far from St. Marteen in the Caribbean. Getting there is not that much fun as their are not many options, and the airport is a 90 minute drive from the area where most tourism takes place.

I stayed at the Anchorage Hotel in Roseau. I arrived at 9:30 PM, having traveled 35 hours. At first look it seemed old but quaint. The room plan I had included breakfast and unlimited shore diving. It had its own dock making it easy for dive and whale watching boats to pick up and drop of guests.

I have to say the bed was firm and comfortable. The sound of the ocean lapping agains the sore was so soothing and relaxing that I never turned on the music in my I-pad. The room also had working a/c, a power adapter, t.v., and an internet cable to hook up your computer. That's the good news.

Here is the bad. The the shower head sprayed water in a wide pattern that no matter where you pointed the thing, some water shot out over the top of the shower onto the floor . Thank goodness a towel was all that was needed to clean up after each shower. The toilet seat was at least 30 years old and seemed ready for replacement. Enough said.

On the second day, I requested a burnt out light bulb changed in my room. Perhaps it was ordered and a boat was bringing it from somewhere far away. I checked out 14 days later and the bulb was still out.

Dominica is unique in that it has a resident population of Sperm Whales and some of the most colorful sponges in the world. I was on a permitted project that allowed us to snorkel with the whales. The goal was to photograph social behavior amongst the whales. The permit was for 2 weeks however I joined for just the second week. Of course the week before I arrived the group had encounters with five whales demonstrating social behavior.

The trip was organized by Clark Miller. He worked with Izzy who acted as a representative of from the fisheries dept in Dominica to secure the permit, boat, captain, guide, and hotel. With all the boat troubles that transpired, Clark worked very hard. Usually, I am the one that has to deal with engine & other problems. Not on this trip. Clark handled everything.Thanks Clark.



The Captain of the boat was Jerry. He is also known as Dominica's whale whisperer. Indeed, Jerry seemed very capable,and knew what to do. Too bad his boat needed constant attention. As a result of engine issues, a few days of our whale watching time ended early in order to fix the boat. This is the typical stuff that happens on a remote island.



Representing the Fisheries department was Izzy. It was very clear to us that both Izzy and Jerry knew what they were doing, and were trying their best to find the behaviors we were looking for. As wild life photographer I understand there are three rules. Rule #1 - no guarantee the whales will show up. Rule #2 - No guarantee the whales will hang out should they appear. Rule # 3- See Rule number # 1

I met Izzy back in 1998, when I was a dive master and photo pro on a liveaboard in Palau. It was good being on the same boat again. Izzy, has a great sense of humor that is sometimes masked in satire. He made me laugh a lot.

After the 8 days with the whales were finished, I focused on scuba diving. From everything I had been told Dominica, featured a variety of Sponges and the most colorful diving in the Caribbean. Since the hotel had a dive boat I booked four days of boat diving.

As it turns out, on the first day the boats dive master had worked 9 days in a row and was in need of a day on land to off gas nitrogen. So no boat dive. I ended up doing a shore dive and enjoyed seeing a lot of eels, crabs, shrimps, scorpion fish, and sponge. The second day, the second day, the scheduled dive master didn't show up and I enjoyed another shore dive.

I saw a lot of moray eels on the dive and could not get the song we used to sing on the diveboat in Maui that we used to sing to tourists during the dive briefings. "If you put your hand in a crack and dont get it back - That's a Morray!



That afternoon I told the manager what happened and she assured me that the next two days the boat would go out. And, it did. I have to say that it was good to dive. Just being underwater in a new place was exciting. True to Dominicas reputation the sponges were impressive, and ever-present. One of the sites had a cave and a swim through. Both had a fair amount of red soldier fish. Otherwise the topography was stunning but there was a lack of fish life.

On the last day I went on a land tour with Izzy. We went to Sultoon, a place not yet on any tourist map. The trail was difficult but the views were worth it. The rain forrest and streams were impressive. Even though it dumped rain on us, the day was incredible.

Dominica is known as the Nature Island, and with so many beautiful hikes, scenic views, rivers, and waterfalls it deserves its reputation. I really enjoyed my time in the rain forrest. Rarely does a location live up to its hype. In terms of nature, Dominica exceeded my expectations.

In the end, I found Dominica to be a beautiful place with friendly people. I felt comfortable going around my myself and found one incredible local restaurant called the Fish Pot. The place had no sign. It was a few sheets of 4 x 8 plywood put together. They only offered fish caught that day, and you could have only fried or seamed fish. It was affordable and tasty. So good, I went three times.

Businesses in Dominica for the most part deliver what they promise. Problems with charter companies, dive staff, equipment, & engines do occur. This is typical of developing countries and as long as people that travel there have patience, sense of humor, and trip insurance they will enjoy their time on this Caribbean island. I would return to Dominica to enjoy the nature. It really is a beautiful place.
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